Why Is Authentic Chikankari So Expensive? The Truth Behind Lucknowi Hand Embroidery
Understanding the True Cost of Hand-Embroidered Lucknowi Craft
If you’ve ever wondered why authentic chikankari is expensive, the answer lies far beyond the fabric itself.
Lucknowi chikankari is one of India’s most delicate and labor-intensive hand embroidery traditions. Each piece is created slowly, through multiple handcrafted stages—without the use of machines.
Let us take you through the real process behind chikankari, and help you understand what you are truly paying for.
Chikankari Is a Multi-Step Handcrafted Process
Unlike mass-produced garments, hand-embroidered chikankari involves 5–6 detailed stages, depending on the product. Each step is done manually and involves skilled artisans.
Step 01: Cloth Cutting and Stitching
The fabric is carefully cut and stitched before embroidery begins. This ensures accurate motif placement and a balanced final silhouette.
This step requires skilled tailoring, especially for sarees, kurtas, and dupattas.
Step 02: Chapayi (Hand Block Printing)
The embroidery design is hand-printed onto the fabric using wooden blocks and washable ink.
This process acts as a guide for artisans and ensures uniformity—without the involvement of machines.
Step 03: Hand Embroidery
This is the most time-consuming and valuable stage.
- Each motif is embroidered entirely by hand
- A single piece can take 15–30 days or more
- Multiple stitches such as bakhiya, murri, phanda, and jaali may be used
No two hand-embroidered chikankari pieces are ever identical.
Step 04: Dyeing (If Required)
If the garment requires colour, it is hand-dyed after embroidery to protect the stitches.
This is done in small batches, demanding precision and experience.
Step 05: Washing
The fabric is gently washed to:
- Remove printed ink
- Soften the embroidery
- Enhance drape and texture
This step improves the garment’s final look and comfort.
Step 06: Finishing
Loose threads are trimmed, motifs are inspected, and the garment is prepared for wear.
This ensures the piece meets quality standards and lasts for years.
Why Hand-Embroidered Chikankari Costs More
Every stage of the chikankari handwork process involves human skill and labour.
There is no factory automation or fast production.
Your purchase supports:
- Tailors
- Block printers
- Embroiderers
- Dyers
- Washers
- Finishers
Each artisan is compensated for their time, experience, and craftsmanship.
A Rare Skill That Is Slowly Disappearing
Authentic Lucknowi chikankari is not widely practiced anymore.
- It takes years to master this embroidery
- Highly skilled artisans are becoming fewer
- Younger generations often move away due to low wages
As the craft becomes rarer, true handmade chikankari naturally holds higher value.
The Real Question Isn’t “Why Is Chikankari Expensive?”
The real question is:
Why has hand embroidery been undervalued for so long?
When you choose authentic chikankari, you support:
- Fair artisan wages
- Sustainable fashion
- Craft preservation
- Ethical production
And that is the true cost behind every handcrafted piece.
About Firgun
At Firgun, every Lucknowi chikankari piece is created slowly and ethically by skilled artisans.
We believe luxury lies in effort, not excess.
Explore Our Handcrafted Chikankari Collection -